The rat is an oft-misunderstood animal. The Domestic Rat, also known as the Fancy Rat, was originally bred from the wild European species of the same scientific name, also known as the Norway Rat or Brown Rat. Domestic rats are today bred for many different traits just as domestic dogs and cats are, and make great companion animals. Rats are extremely intelligent and easily trainable- they can even be litter trained with patience, and easily trained to walk harnessed on a leash as well. They love spending time with each other as well as their humans, and so are best kept in an area of the house that is highly trafficked. Domestic Rat VarietiesUnlike dogs and cats, domestic rats are categorized by variety rather than breed. There are several organizations across the globe that describe these varieties, and each has its own distinction of varieties recognized for show in exhibitions. Organizations include The Rat and Mouse Club of America (RMCA), American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association (AFRMA), and The National Fancy Rat Society (NFRS) in the United Kingdom. Below are the main varieties- these are also categorized by markings and colors. Pet store rats are often interbred and so will have imperfect markings similar to but not accurate to the requirements for show.
Rats are social animals that can become stressed or even depressed if left alone, so it is always recommended to have at least two. A group of rats is called a mischief, though some rat owners refer to their groups as ratteries. They can be housed in single sex groupings, or together if they are spayed or neutered. It is easier and safer to neuter a male than spay a female, as in other mammalian species, and especially recommended for males if their testosterone is too high, as just like other species this can cause aggression. It is beneficial in either sex because one of the most common causes of early death in rats is cancer, so removal of the sex organs reduces the places metastasis can occur. When adopting a rat, it is important to consider where it is being acquired from. Due to the prevalence of mills, pet store rats have a higher chance of behavioral issues or shortened lifespans due to medical conditions such as cancer from interbreeding. In retired lab rats, cancer can also be common depending on what type of lab they came from as their cancers form and progress almost identical to humans, but much faster. Rats from breeders typically have better dispositions and the longest lifespans, though illness is still the number one cause of a rat’s death due to the long period in which rats were interbred before regulations and recommendations were put in place by rat enthusiasts. The most common illness is caused by the bacteria Mycoplasma pulmonis results in pneumonia in rodents but is not zoonotic (contagious) to humans. It is for this reason that it is most vital to keep a rat’s home clean, warm, and free of aerosols or dust such as from pine or cedar bedding. If a rat exhibits mucus bubbles around their nose or it can be heard in their breathing, antibiotics from the vet and spending time in a steamy room are the best treatment (I have put mine with me in the bathroom while I shower). Quick Overview
When building your first rat enclosure, metal is recommended as it cannot be chewed on and is easy to clean. Bars on the side are vital for ventilation, but platforms should be solid or covered with cloth to prevent feet or tails from getting stuck. Rats are great climbers and most prefer to sleep in hammocks, so one can build up rather than out to conserve space. Some rats love wheels; be sure to only purchase sturdy ones with solid surfaces such as Silent Spinners or Wodent Wheels. Few rat specific toys are available in pet stores so most ratters also collect enrichment and furniture sold for birds, reptiles, fish, or even make their own to save money. Anything you give a rat runs the risk of being chewed on and eventually needing to be replaced-- inorganic materials especially if you have heavy chewers that may ingest indigestible material. Wood can be reused but may eventually need to get thrown out due to urinating if they are not fully litter trained (especially with un-neutered males). Plastic can be cleaned with simple green or bleach and rinsed well, and fabric can be shaken out then washed. Rats are omnivores and prefer to eat a variety of foods. They’ll love to share pieces of the salad you’re cutting for dinner, or clean out that yogurt container once you’re done with it. Be sure to check that a new food is safe- some fruits and vegetables eaten by humans are only safe for rats cooked, in small amounts, or not at all. If you have picky eaters and are worried about them getting enough nutrients VitaKraft makes a supplement you can add daily to their water. As rodents, they have continually growing teeth and must also be provided chews, preferably in a variety. My go-tos are wood chews, seashells or cuttlebone for added calcium, and mineral/salt licks for micronutrients. BathingSometimes, your rats get messy and will need a bath. Try to stick to no more than once a month, max every three weeks, except in emergencies. Fill in with wipe downs in between using a damp cloth. This wil ensure your rats stay clean but also don’t loose the natural oils on their skin from overwashing. Bathing provides enrichment for them, and if you start early you can ensure that baths are not stressful for them down the line. This ensures that if you need to bathe one for an emergency such as fleas or if they get into something they shouldn’t, you’ll be able to do it quickly with little fuss in what will already be an uncomfortable experience for them. Bath water should not be too hot for us to touch, but on the warmer side as their normal body temperature is 100.4-102.2 degrees fahrenheit. I prefer using the bathtub so that they have lots of room and you can have a deep area for them to swim as well as a shallow one for them to stand. A large container or even a kiddie pool will work as well- just be sure to include rocks or other “islands” for them to rest on. The sound of the waterfall can scare them, so don’t put them in until the water is filled and still, especially if this is their first time or they’re still nervous about baths. For soap, you will want to purchase non-toxic, extra gentle, tear free shampoo. Few stores carry this for small mammals (and when they do it is usually marked up) so I usually use dog shampoo or baby shampoo. Do this after giving them some free time in the water as once it is soapy you’ll not want to leave them in it for long in case of ingestion. Either run the water slowly so as not to scare them with the noise, or have a pitcher of clean water for a final rinse. For drying, rub them down real well with a towel and swaddle them tight in a warm area so they don’t get too cold. This is a great chance for bonding and snuggling with their humans. Some of my rats have even enjoyed a gentle blow with the hair dryer! Animal Care Cost Example (2017 Prices): Set Up
AuthorSarah is a conservation educator and trained zookeeper currently working at an AZA (Association of Zoos and Aquariums) accredited zoo in New Jersey while also starting a freelance nature program in Jersey City. Her education specialties include urban environmental programming and access, while her keeping specialties are focused on small mammals, arthropods, and birds of prey.
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Many people have the false assumption that with a ferret's smaller size, they should be less expensive than owning a dog or cat. While that might be true in regards to food costs, it certainly is not the case with their veterinary care. Ferrets require rabies vaccines and annual exams just like dogs and cats. Canine distemper vaccines are also recommended for ferrets by many veterinarians, although opinions vary. A typical lifespan for a ferret is five to ten years, although some may live up to ten years. Unfortunately, they are prone to a variety of diseases such as adrenal disease, insulinoma. Ferrets are also mischievous and can easily get into trouble which might cause a costly emergency vet visit. All of these factors add up! To help give potential ferret owners an idea of their future costs, we have broken down the costs by year for three of our ferrets.
Sophie passed away in February 2017 at the age of six years old. Gambit and Samson are still with us. Gambit is currently six years old and was diagnosed with insulinoma earlier this year. Samson is currently five years old. When ferrets are younger, an annual and well visit can cost between $50 and $75. As they get older, it is recommended that they have their blood work done which can increase the cost by $140 or more. Surgeries are often extremely costly. In 2014, Samson got access to a screwdriver and decided to chew on it. He knocked out one of his fangs at the gum line and had to have surgery to remove the remnants of the tooth. Samson had a second surgery in 2017 when he had strange bumps on his toe pads and also had his spleen aspirated as it has been enlarged, which is common for older ferrets.
In 2016, Sophie started showing health problems which required treatment. In 2017 she was euthanized when her quality of life decreased to a point that it was unlikely that she would recover. It was believed that she had contracted the ferret version of FIP which can happen to some ferrets who are exposed to ECE and then the virus mutates to something similar to FIP. Since Gambit's diagnosis of insulinoma, it costs roughly $130 per month for him to have his glucose level checked and to have his medications refilled. This cost may increase as the disease progresses. For some ferrets with insulinoma, surgery may be an option. At six years old, surgery seems to be an unnecessary stress on his system. With multiple ferrets, the health costs will be higher. Here at Ferrets and Friends, we think our ferrets are worth every penny!
The vaquita is the smallest and most endangered species of cetacean in the world. Its name is Spanish for “little cow” and is also known as the cochito (Spanish for "pig" or "sow"), desert porpoise, vaquita porpoise, Gulf of California harbor porpoise, Gulf of California porpoise, and gulf porpoise. Their numbers have been dropping dramatically, mostly due to getting caught in gillnets used for the illegal fishing of totoaba, a fish that is also critically endangered. Vaquita are easily recognizable by the black markings around their eyes and mouth, the latter of which extends towards the dorsal fin, giving them an appearance of always smiling. Unlike other species of porpoise, they live in warm waters and are generally non-social, except when caring for young (in which case you will see them only with their one calf) or when mating. Occasionally they have been seen in groups of up to 10. Only once has a larger group been sighted, which was about 40 individuals. They are extremely hard to observe in the wild because they spend little time on the water’s surface and avoid boats. They tend to feed in lagoons and are non-selective or opportunistic predators, but they especially like croakers, grunts, and trout, which is what causes them to get caught easily. They are endemic, meaning they are only found in one tiny area of the world, in the Gulf of California between the eastern coast of the Baja Peninsula and the western coast of Mexico. The vaquita has been making waves in the world of zoos and aquaria as the Association of Zoos and Aquariums (AZA) has recently added them to the Saving Animals From Extinction (SAFE) program. Because they are so hard to observe, we for years thought the population was doing better and might survive without human intervention, but recent counts has put the wild population at only ~30 individuals. Unfortunately, it’s estimated that we lose about 30 individuals each year. To try to save the species, the AZA is managing the capture of the remaining individuals and is researching how to care for them and breed them in captivity. Very rarely do zoos take animals from the wild anymore, but exceptions are made when an individual or a species cannot survive there anymore. It is the AZA’s hope that if they can increase the population size and use methods from the AZA’s Species Survival Plan (a breeding program for endangered or threatened species), they can increase genetic diversity amongst the vaquita population so that if they can ever be released back into the wild, they will have the best chance at evolving to keep up with their changing environment and local threats. Learning how to care for these beautiful creatures will be a hard and long process, but if successful, you may see a vaquita in your local AZA zoo or aquarium in the future! AuthorSarah is a conservation educator and trained zookeeper currently working at an AZA (Association of Zoos and Aquariums) accredited zoo in New Jersey while also starting a freelance nature program in Jersey City. Her education specialties include urban environmental programming and access, while her keeping specialties are focused on small mammals, arthropods, and birds of prey.
Tiger Salamanders are tied with Giant Salamanders for the record on the largest terrestrial salamander species, reaching lengths of up to 14 inches. They can be found in the woodland areas throughout most of North America, from northern regions of Mexico to the southern regions of Canada. Their color patterns may vary with specific species, but most are dark brown in color with lighter marking that can range from a muted grey to a bright yellow. As a burrowing species, Tiger Salamanders are rarely seen out in the open. They prefer to spend most of their time about two feet under the surface. These voracious predators consume a variety of insects, slugs, and earthworms. Like many other amphibians, Tiger Salamanders will eat their skin after shedding. Tiger Salamanders reach sexual maturity after the first year. Females tend to have a more rounded figure. Males tend to have a slimmer build with flat tales. Their cloaca may appear swollen compared to the females. The Tiger Salamander is considered the State Amphibian of both Colorado and Kansas. In many places it is illegal to sell adult specimens to discourage the pet trade from taking specimens from the wild. The state of Colorado also has limitations on which species can be possessed in captivity. Quick Overview
Tiger Salamanders are popular as pets due to their simple care requirements. A 10 gallon tank is large enough to keep one individual. Multiple salamanders can be housed together, but they should be similar in size and feeding should be monitored to make sure that each individual gets enough to eat. Some salamanders may appreciate a shallow water dish, but they do not require one as they absorb moisture through their skin from the substrate. They appreciate areas to hide such as a log or a fake plant, but most will burrow in the substrate. Live plants that are not toxic can also be used in the enclosure with the understanding that the salamander may occasionally dig up the plant. They do not require additional heating or UVB lighting as long as the enclosure is in an area that is room temperature. At Ferrets and Friends, LLC our Tiger Salamanders are fed two to three times per week. They each eat about three to five crickets per feeding, depending on their appearance. Tiger Salamanders will become obese if they are overfed. Animal Care Cost Example (2017 Prices): Set Up
Animal Care Cost Example (2017 Prices): Annual Cost
Bearded Dragons can make excellent pets for those who want a lizard that can be handled, but also have enough space for larger tank or enclosure. So your child has expressed interested in a scaley friend or perhaps you are hoping to get into the reptile hobby yourself! Undoubtedly, you've heard someone mention "bearded dragons" as a good beginner pet. While they are very common in the pet trade, they have their own pros and cons. One of the difficult aspects of the reptile-keeping hobby is maintaining the right environment for your pet. This is typically measured in terms of temperature and humidity. For example, an animal that is native to the rainforest would need to have that environment mimicked in its enclosure in captivity. For most people, recreating a rainforest inside their own home can present a daunting challenge. Since Bearded Dragons are native to the woodlands and deserts of Australia, new owners can focus on getting the correct temperatures for their pet without the added complication of higher humidity requirements. Additionally, Bearded Dragons have a naturally more docile temperament. Active youngsters can become calm and mellow adults with regular handling. All young lizards will tend to be flighty, but hatchling bearded dragons are relatively calmer compared to young water dragons or iguanas. At a typical pet store, baby bearded dragons will be easier for a novice to handle than baby leopard geckos. However, leopard geckos may make better pets for those who want an animal that has less demanding space requirements or those who tend not to be home during the day. You may have seen the cute baby lizards that look like the picture on the left. These pictures are of the same lizard! Most will reach adult size within the first year.A Bearded Dragon's size can be a pro or a con depending on what someone is looking for in their pet. On one hand, their size makes them a more interactive pet. It's much easier to supervise a free roaming adult bearded dragon when they are easier to catch and cannot fit into impossibly small spaces like an anole or a gecko. They also are not as large as other lizards such as tegus and iguanas that could easily cause harm to people or other pets. Of course, these medium-sized lizards will need larger enclosures than other typical beginner species (such as the leopard gecko mentioned earlier). An enclosure that is four feet by two feet might be a good home for a bearded dragon that is also allowed time out of its enclosure for exercise. This is not the type of habitat that can be easily fit on top of a bookcase and blend in with the room's decor. While it is common practice to keep bearded dragons in a 40 gallon glass tank, this might not work for every lizard. Some will be too large or active and others may be stressed by their own reflection. Bigger lizards also mean bigger appetites! Baby bearded dragons can certainly run up a feeding tab. Most of their diet will consist of crickets, mealworms, and roaches. As they get older, they may show more of an interest in fruits, carrots, and other leafy green vegetables. It's not uncommon for a baby bearded dragon to eat $20-$40 worth of food in one week! They will need to be fed daily and will need their meals to be dusted with calcium (with D3) to support their bone growth. Adult bearded dragons may only need to eat every few days, but you can still expect to spend about $5-$10 per week on food. Bearded Dragons are diurnal which means that they are only active during the day. It is best to feed them after they have had a chance to warm up in the morning, but not too late in the day that their bodies will not have the heat necessary to digest their food. Food that is not consumed should be removed. People who have busy schedules during daylight hours may find it difficult to find a good feeding time for their lizard. A Bearded Dragon may be a great addition to your home, but make sure to do your research first! These lizards typically live 10-15 years, so they are no minor commitment. It is not uncommon for owners to become "bored" with their pet. Never release a pet into your surrounding environment. Not only is this harmful for your pet, but it can also be harmful for the local ecosystem. There are many methods for re-homing or surrendering a pet that is no longer wanted. Please research these options for your area. If you are considering a new reptile pet, make sure that you have the physical and financial resources to care for your new friend. As exciting as it may be to see a baby grow into an adult, consider contacting your local reptile rescue to find out if they have any bearded dragons that are up for adoption.
Pet lizards have become more popular in recent years and the Bearded Dragon may have had a significant contribution to this rise in popularity. Their unique appearance and calm temperament make for great handeable pets as long as they have owners that are willing to meet the requirements for their care. Last month one of our bloggers had the chance to travel to Vancouver, British Columbia in Canada for the Children & Nature Network Annual Conference & International Summit. There were oodles of panels and “walkshops” teaching educators, administrators, and other environmentally-focused people best practices for leading classes to students of all ages. There were even classes with doctors discussing the benefits of time in nature on a person’s physical and mental health. The biggest focus was how to get the whole family outside and interacting with nature. The plan was to achieve this through running Family Nature Clubs, which are exactly what they sound like: kids and adults, from babies through senior citizens, enjoying time learning about nature and playing in it with other families in their community. Lots of organizations run these, but they can also be totally informal and run by its own members. We heard from speakers who run these clubs all over the world, including in the United States. There are tons of resources online, especially through the Children & Nature Network where these clubs were first coined. (Scroll down for the “Nature Club Toolkit for Families” in English and several other languages). What was really surprising was that there is even an app for parents of 0-3 year olds to help them have nature activity time! This app, GROW With Nature Play, is a parenting tool which lists hundreds of nature activities, organized by age appropriateness, which parents can use after they’ve gone home and put their child to rest for a nap, to track what they’ve done that day. Activities can be as simple as looking at a bird flying by! The Grow With Nature Play app was created by an Austialian father who wanted to be sure his kids were experiencing nature and family time daily from the start of their lives. The ideas didn’t stop there. We talked about how to make activities fun and educational for families with mixed ages-- trying to get a 6 year old and a 16 year old enjoying the same things can be scary even for seasoned teachers! As much as kids may act like they don’t want to be with the family, they overall enjoy hanging out with their siblings and don’t like to be divided by age, so partner them together. We learned a really important tip that sometimes adults forget: teenagers like to know they’re trusted, as they’re trying to come into their own as indivuals and young adults, so give them some responsibility, like watching the kids or guarding the first aid kit. When it comes to activities that kids of different ages just can’t physically do or understand in the same way, find ways to work around it. For example, nature photography is a great way to get everyone exploring. Preteens and up like to get creative with their camera angles and lighting or finding something really challenging to take a picture of, while for littles they just want to play I Spy. Both are alright! You can even make a scavenger hunt or activity sheet for each age range: for the youngest, instead of writing the words, use drawings, like of a flower or leaf, to tell them what to look for. A few more activities that kids of all ages can enjoy:
As one speaker said, “They don’t need to understand the biology to develop the wonder.” People of all ages just love spending time with animals and nature! If you try any of these activities with your family (or find a new one), let us know how it went! Later this year we’ll let you know too. Kids have great eyes to spot well-camouflaged creatures like this Northwestern Mole Salamander (be sure to always use clean hands devoid of chemicals or oils before handling any amphibian, their fragile skin absorbs everything!) AuthorSarah is a conservation educator and trained zookeeper currently working at an AZA (Association of Zoos and Aquariums) accredited zoo in New Jersey while also starting a freelance nature program in Jersey City. Her education specialties include urban environmental programming and access, while her keeping specialties are focused on small mammals, arthropods, and birds of prey. People often ask us “do ferrets make good pets?” Like most subjective questions, the simplest answer is “well, it depends.” Ferrets can be great pets for people who value a small, quiet, and interactive pet. However, ferrets are not great for those who want a low cost pet that doesn’t require much time or energy. Unlike many of the animals that we present in shows, ferrets are actually domesticated. As dogs are to wolves, ferrets are to their wild counterpart, European polecats. They have been domesticated for roughly 2,500 years. They were originally used to hunt rabbits and other small rodents. Their domestication process is more similar to dogs than to cats in that they were bred for their ability to cooperate with humans while hunting (Domesticated: Evolution in a Man-made World by Richard C. Francis). By nature, ferrets are more social than cats, but less social than dogs. Their body language tends to be more expressive than that of a cat, but they are still considerably more aloof than a dog. Individual ferrets have a range of personalities and temperaments. Here, at Ferrets and Friends, we have a five year old male, Samson, who will frequently request to be held, get his back scratched, and his belly rubbed. Our four year old female, Ramona, will show curiosity about human activity, but she mostly prefers to seek out her own adventures which include hiding toys. Our newest addition, Riley, is about four months old and full of energy. She spends most of her time chasing after people, jumping and tackling their legs or feet, and playing with whoever finds her antics amusing. The level to which a ferret wants to engage with people varies greatly with each individual. Even though ferrets are domesticated, an untrained ferret can be a bit too “wild”. Ferret skin is actually tougher than people skin, so young ferrets must be taught what level of biting is acceptable for their human friends. Ferrets naturally play very rough! Most kits can be taught to be gentle and to not nip faces, ears, or ankles. An adult ferret who was never taught good manners with people can be trained, but it may take more work as this behavior has likely been unintentionally reinforced throughout its life. The Challenges of Ferret Ownership Can ferrets be housebroken or litter-trained? Most ferrets can be trained to a certain extent. As they naturally prefer to go to the bathroom in corners, placing a litter pan in the corner may be sufficient for some ferrets to learn the desired behavior. Other ferrets will be very stubborn, even “faking it” when their owners place them in the litterbox so they can go eliminate where they originally wanted. Ferrets have a very fast metabolism and need to eat every 4-6 hours, which means they will eliminate just as frequently. That’s a lot of mess for a small animal! As a carnivorous mammal, their excrement is closer to a cat’s or dog’s, which means that it cannot easily be swept up as is the case with rodents such as rabbits, chinchillas, or guinea pigs. While many stores will advertise ferrets as being a “caged” pet, cages do not allow ferrets adequate stimulation or exercise. Here, at Ferrets and Friends, our ferrets have their own room and are also allowed supervised play outside of their room for a few hours per day. If ferrets are kept in a cage, they should have at least four hours per day of out of cage time (preferably broken into two separate sessions). Providing ferrets with a safe play area can be one of the most difficult parts of ferret ownership as ferrets are able to get into EVERYTHING. Anywhere their skull can fit, their squirmy bodies can follow. This can mean under cabinets, inside furniture or appliances, under doors, into walls, and anywhere you could imagine. There are few commercial pet gates or baby gates that ferrets can’t either fit through or climb over. Some ferrets are known to chew cords or scratch carpet. Their intelligence can become a hazard as they learn to pull open sliding doors or unzip purses and bookbags. Ferret-proofing an area is an act of constant vigilance and creativity. The larger the area in your home that your ferrets have access to, the more you’ll have to factor in your ferrets’ penchant towards mischief in your decisions about furniture and furniture placement. In this way, ferret ownership can become a lifestyle. The cost of ferret ownership will be similar to that of a dog or cat. They require annual vet visits and vaccines for rabies and distemper. There are also several diseases that are common as ferrets get older which will require costly treatments. With their unending curiosity, even in a ferret-proofed home there is still a risk for an emergency vet visit. A vet bill of $500-$1500 is not unheard of for pet ferrets and is likely to occur at some point in your ferret’s lifetime. If you haven’t been dissuaded by these factors, chances are that you may be the kind of person who would enjoy sharing your life with a ferret. While their ability to create messes is outstanding, ferrets are generally very clean. Regular nail trimming is usually necessary about once per month and a bath may only be necessary every few months. Bathing your ferret too frequently can actually increase their smell as their bodies produce more oil to compensate. Ferrets only shed twice per year as they change their seasonal coats. Allergies to ferrets are very rare and are usually unrelated to a person’s allergies to cats or dogs.
Owning a ferret can be compared to having a puppy or kitten that doesn’t grow up. They tend to sleep most of the day, but when they are awake it’s time to play! Sometimes that play can involve digging up houseplants or stealing items from the laundry hamper. If you have a good sense of humor and you’re looking for a small pet to bring some excitement into your life, ferrets may be for you! Just be sure to put some money aside and stock up your cleaning supplies. Ferrets and Friends, LLC became a recognized organization one year ago today! So we guess that means that it’s our birthday!
To celebrate, we are unveiling some exciting new features. If you are viewing this page, then you have already figured out how to navigate our new blog feature. With four talented writers, we will be covering topics from basic reptile husbandry, animal training techniques, research, conservation, and more! Get ready, animal-lovers, for your one stop spot for all of your animal-related curiosities! But wait, there’s more! We are also unveiling our Youtube channel. We will be creating videos for both kids and adults. From entertaining videos of our animal friends’ antics to information-packed care videos, we will have a variety of videos to get your animal video fix. We are excited to spread our knowledge and experience with the greater community, but we cannot do it without our local customer base. If you are in the Baltimore/Washington, DC area, help spread the word. Ask your local schools, churches, youth group leaders, and communities to bring the zoo to you! We offer educational shows with live animals and meet-and-greet style interactions that are perfect for larger and longer community events. With a variety of invertebrates, amphibians, reptiles, parrots, and small mammals, there is something for everyone. Click below to book a show with Ferrets and Friends! |
About the blogFerrets and Friends, LLC has four writers bringing you information on a variety of topics from pets to wildlife, education to conservation, and from new developments in our business to information about our industry. Learn something new each week! Archives
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